Espinaler is the brand that explains a category. The cockle is not a well-known tin in the United States, and most American buyers encountering it for the first time will need the context the brand carries with it: bar culture, aperitivo hour, the proprietary sauce with its paprika and anchovy base, the Catalan habit of opening a small tin with a glass of vermouth before anything else begins. The shellfish lineup also includes mussels and clams, all done with the same restraint and brine clarity as the cockles. But it is the berberechos that the bar was built on, and they are the reason the name has lasted 130 years.