Conservas Pinhais does not make a wide argument for itself. The paper-wrapped tin is the argument. It says: this is a house that has not found a reason to change the things that work, which in practice means hand-packing, quality Portuguese olive oil, and fish sourced from the same Atlantic waters the cannery has always used. The sardines they produce are the benchmark for the category in America — not the most famous Portuguese name, but the best. Everything else in the Pinhais range — mackerel, tuna, different preparations of sardine — benefits from the same discipline. Start with the sardines in olive oil and you will understand why the paper matters.